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Application Tips
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How to Apply Touch Up Paint
using our Spray Cans

Quick Steps-Spray Cans
1) Clean the area (soap and water or wax and grease remover).
2) Scuff the area well with wet and dry sandpaper.
3) Check humidity (below 50%) and temperature (around 70ºF).
3) Spray even wet coats of basecoat. You can sand the paint between coats, but don't sand the final coat. Two wet coats should be sufficient. Allow each coat to dry 20 minutes before recoating. Some colours require more paint.
4) Let the paint dry for at least one hour and then spray the lacquer. Spray the lacquer beyond the basecoat to a good stopping point such as the edge of the panel. Two wet coats should be sufficient.
5) Let the lacquer dry for at least six to seven hours. Use Rubbing Compound (apply with clean soft cotton only, paper products or dirty fabrics will scratch your paint surface) to smooth and shine the area. Always test the rubbing compound on your bike in an inconspicuous place to check for surface compatibility and shine. Without this step, the paint will not shine properly.
6) If this is your first time, try one small area from start to finish before repairing other areas.
 

horizontal rule

Problems:
Paint will not shine.

Important!
Make sure the temperature is at least 50° F but around 70° F is ideal. 

Spray Can Information
All spray cans provide excellent coverage of about six square feet (with two wet coats) so you can estimate how many cans you will need by measuring the square footage of the area you are painting.
Blowing in the paint into adjacent panels will achieve a much nicer and less noticeable repair especially for metallic paints. The most important thing to remember is to not spray heavy coats. Do not apply so little paint that it dries as you apply it as this creates dry spots. Spray in a dust free area. Again, practice AWAY from your bike!

Clean and Protect the Area
Wash the area with soap and water, then use a wax and grease remover or equivalent product (some painters have suggested tar and insect remover, available at Halfords) before starting the project. You may wish to use masking tape (automotive quality only!) all around the scratch or chipped area to prevent accidentally marring the surface. 

Paint Spraying-Humidity and Temperature Warning!
Make sure you do not spray in wet or humid conditions! To test the humidity, spray some of the lacquer and see how it dries. If it dries with a whitish haze or streaks, it's too humid to paint! Spray paint should be applied when the temperature is at least 70°F and the humidity is below 50%.

Rust
The first thing to determine is if the scratch has started to rust. We are talking about a surface scratch and not rust that is bubbling up beneath the paint, as this is too far-gone for touch-up paint! If the area is rusty, you should take a little extra effort to remove all traces of rust using 220 grit sandpaper or a wire brush.

Sanding
Clean the area as described above then sand the area you wish to spray with #600 grit sandpaper. If you are spraying a fairing panel, you must decide how far you are going to paint and scuff the entire area. See below for additional information.

Primer
If you have an unpainted surface, either bare metal, plastic, rubber, etc., APPLY PRIMER! Primer is made to stick to unpainted surfaces and paint is designed to stick to primer! Professional automotive painters use lots of primer. You can spray primer over unpainted surfaces, existing paint (as long as you have sanded the paint) and over body filler. Use primer to cover small imperfections and to build up scratched areas to a smooth surface. For deeper scratches, we recommend a product called primer filler available at Halfords. The primer is applied in several thin coats to slowly build up the surface. Primer has a tendency to shrink so let it dry according to the manufacturers instructions and apply several coats to achieve a smooth surface.

Paint Spraying-Technique
Tape surrounding areas to protect against over spray. Use a tack rag to pick up any foreign matter on the panel. Spray even, overlapping coats. The painted area should be evenly wet with no dry spots. You can sand out imperfections later. Let the paint dry for approximately 15 to 30 minutes then apply a second coat. Let the paint dry overnight and wet sand the area using 1000 wet and dry sandpaper to sand out imperfections, dust, etc. Spray a final coat of paint over the area but do not sand it. Let the paint dry 24 hours before applying lacquer. For best results, metallic paints should be
blown into the surrounding area.

Paint Spraying-Paint to an edge
After you have painted the repaired area, slowly feather the paint out on either side of the repaired area. Professional shops will often paint to a boundary such as the edge of a door, a panel line on your car, a moulding, etc. The idea is not to leave a paint line right in the middle of a panel..

Watch for Drips!
Your spraying your final coat and suddenly a big drip falls from the can right in the centre of your work! Don't try to wipe it off, you will make the situation worse.. The best thing to do is just let it dry and wet sand the drip away and re-coat the area. Some of our customers have reported wrapping the spray can with a rag to catch any unforeseen drips. This even happens to professional painters so just be aware of it and check the nozzle and can for excess paint build up.

Note on Spraying Metallic Paints
If you apply too much paint to the surface or do not wait long enough between coats, the metallic flake in the paint will become uneven. The final coat of metallic paint should be sprayed farther away from the surface to let the metallic flakes go on as evenly as possible. This distance will depend on your paint colour, temperature, humidity, etc. so be sure to practice off the bike first!

Spraying the lacquer
Spray the clear lacquer over the paint. Do not spray the lacquer in the sun. Do not spray a part that has been heated by the sun. Let it cool down first, as otherwise the lacquer will dry with a dull finish. Let the lacquer dry overnight. If necessary, wet sand out any imperfections with 1000 grit, then apply a final coat of clear. Use automotive rubbing compound to smooth and shine the area. 

Spraying the lacquer-Technique
You would typically spray the lacquer farther out than the paint to a boundary line on your bike. Again, you don't want to spray the lacquer in the middle of a panel without going out to the edges as you will leave a noticeable lacquer line.

Using the Rubbing Compound
The application of Rubbing compound creates the deep gloss in the lacquer so don't skip this step! 

Let the lacquer dry for at least six to seven hours before using the rubbing compound. Do not use a heavy duty rubbing compound as it will dull the surface. Also, do not use polishing compound as this is not the same as rubbing compound.

Use a clean, very soft cloth like an old tee shirt (for example DO NOT USE PAPER PRODUCTS as the wood fibres will scratch the paint!). Place a small quantity of rubbing compound on the bike and use circular strokes and apply even pressure. It's almost like waxing a vehicle except the rubbing compound is like an extremely fine liquid sandpaper. Buff with a clean cloth to a high gloss. (You may want to spray some paint and lacquer on a smooth surface and practice to get the feel of it.)  Sometimes lots of pressure is required to make the clear shine. The rubbing compound can also be applied by machine, but careful, it's very easy to burn the paint! You can get the same results by hand, it will just take a bit longer. 

Problems
Poor or no shine: 
1) You may have not applied enough lacquer. If you have gone through the lacquer, you will end up polishing the basecoat which will not shine! Solution-apply more lacquer and compound the area again.
2) You are using polishing compound or heavy duty rubbing compound. The polishing compound will do nothing for the paint and the heavy duty compound will dull the finish. Solution-use a medium duty rubbing compound. You may have to apply more lacquer.
3) You may have such a large area that trying to compound by hand is just too difficult. Solution-use a power buffer or hire a detail shop to compound the area. See the warning above about using a power buffer.
4) You have used paper cloth, have a dirty cloth, are using a terry cloth towel or a cloth with grit in it. Solution-use an old clean T-shirt.
5) You didn't apply any lacquer! Don't laugh, but this has been a common problem. The basecoat will not shine no matter how much rubbing compound you apply. Solution-Apply lacquer!
6) You have a whitish haze or white streaks through the clear. This is caused by high humidity conditions.  Solution-Wait until the humidity is under 50%. Scuff down the lacquer, apply more colour coat and reapply the clear.
7) You have spider veins through the paint. This is caused by either spraying the paint too far away or the temperature is too hot and the paint is drying before it hits the surface. Solution-Apply the paint closer to the surface and do not paint when the temperature is above 80 degrees.

The rubbing compound is also good for removing oxidation from your finish. Let the paint dry for a 30 days and apply a good quality automotive wax.

Hazards and Safety-VERY IMPORTANT! PLEASE READ!!
Automotive touch-up paint including primer and lacquers are EXTREMELY hazardous. Keep away from children! Call a doctor IMMEDIATELY if swallowed. Keep out of direct sunlight and heat over 120F. DO NOT STORE IN CAR and avoid freezing. Contains HAZARDOUS Waste. Use with adequate ventilation. If you experience any dizziness, discontinue product use immediately and call a doctor. The main thing here is to use the product with adequate ventilation. Use an approved automotive paint respirator and WEAR safety goggles when handling automotive paint to protect your eyes!! This includes the primer, paint and lacquer.

Tri-Coats
Any colour that has the word "Tri-coat" in the colour description will need three different steps to achieve the correct colour. First the basecoat is applied, followed by the midcoat and finally a lacquer is applied. Make sure you practice before applying this touch-up paint to you bike.

Drying
Allow the paint to dry for 30 days before waxing. 

Using Your Own Spray Gun
If you choose to use the spray gun, you will need a small container of thinners. If it is more than a couple of months old, use it to clean or prep, but do not use it to thin your paint.  It will create a disaster on your bike! Both the paint and lacquer must be thinned. Thin with one part thinner to one part paint or lacquer. If the paint is too thin, add additional paint. Too thick, add more thinner.

Send mail to sales@bike-paint.co.uk with questions or comments about this web site.
Copyright © 2004 Bike-Paint.co.uk
Last modified: 12 April, 2007